Astrophil&Stella
Astrophil&Stella
Astrophil&Stella is an Italian niche project inspired by the sonnet cycle of Sir Philip Sidney, a poet and politician of the Elizabethan era. In Sir Philip's poems, the hero speaks vividly, with passion, jealousy and subtle irony about his love, but in the end he gets not a beloved, but disappointment and experience.
So what will we get?
I unexpectedly caught on the slightly old-fashioned floral Mellow Yellow.
"The dawn brought me radiance and warmth -
So gentle that into the vault, both bright and high
I fix my long gaze - not scary, not cruel
Rays, but, fearing them, the cold and darkness leave."
Honey-spicy and sultry aroma of night white flowers, weakening in the morning fog with the first drops of dew. Jasmine with its edible and dense smell of ripe banana, yellow iris, redolent of lemon cheesecake and narcissus, grandma's dusty carnation and cool moisture. Mellow Yellow at some point resonates with Guerlain's Coque d'Or, but I'm sure the coincidence is accidental. Just a July garden at dawn, just a stuffy haze of pollen and flowers, just dew.
A Night at the Opera.
"I am on a horse, Eros is riding me -
We prance to our heart's content; I serve, in countless labors,
As a rider to a horse, as a horse to Eros;
With all evil I, a poor beast, am familiar."
Opera? Seriously? I am not an expert, but the opera has never been so smoky. Blue smoke billowing under the ceiling, a strong scent of lemon wormwood, wheel grease and leather, and a sourish glass at the end. This is definitely not a temple of the arts, but rather a cowboy saloon or a tractor driver's cabin.
Amberlievable
"When Nature created the eyes
of the beautiful Stella in the radiance of inspiration,
Why did she give them black?
Perhaps emphasizing the light with shadow?"
The aroma seemed vaguely familiar. I looked - Luca Maffei did something similar for Laboratorio Olfattivo and a couple of other brands. Here are fragrant gingerbread soaked in amaretto, balsamic fatty vanilla and burnt wood. At the center of the story is hot labdanum, with its amber tones and poisonous spirit of cherry pits.
The Iris Way
"Oh Stella! my life, my light and heat,
The only sun of the sky,
An unquenchable ray, an unquenchable ardor,
The sweet nectar of speeches and glances! "
Again, yellow iris with its creamy and lemon aroma. Not a flower, an airy cheese soufflé on thin shortcrust pastry, promising a thousand calories in one piece.
8 days a week
"Among secrets and among heights,
Prince Reason, only you
Have comprehended both the charm of notes,
And the singing of beauty.
Command them to be silent
And crown them with glory!
A typical aroma for heartbreakers - colorful, fussy, foppish. Juicy fresh greenery, apple cider, melons and wood. A complete gentleman's set plus a bit of office humor.
Paris Cheri
"Oh, sweet kiss, you are pure sweetness,
You sweeten more than sweets that sweeten to their heart's content.
You are a choir in which feelings sing in harmony,
Harnessing doves to the carriage of Venus;"
A French pastry shop near the Saint-Paul metro station, where a coffee machine hums, whipping up milk foam, tiny eclairs sparkle with colored glaze on the counter, and the smells of sweet syrups mix with the noise of Rivoli, the smoke of IQOS and La Vie es Belle, which is still everywhere there. If not him, then his heirs and brothers.
Love is Lost
"Here I see many beautiful Ladies, Weaving the lace of tender conversation,
But I will not let them look into their hearts,
In their consolation is the inevitable taste of a healing lie, which always
Brings joy where there is trouble."
Going through the samples of Astrophil&Stella, I kept waiting, when, when will I stumble upon Evernil? Not a single Italian brand can do without it now. Although here, everything else is rich and oriental "rich". Fat black vanilla, fat black rose, fat black paste of spices and amber. Not perfume, but some kind of bakhoor. It should not be sprayed, but burned.
Nabati
"Cupid, Zeus, Mars, Phoebus judged -
Who is endowed with the most beautiful coat of arms?
The eagle on Zeus's golden shield -
He tenaciously grabbed Ganymede."
Nsbati reminds me of a loose and characterless version of Bois Imperial Essential Parfums. The same patchouli, the same tin, the same wood and watery greenery. Plus a piece of dull glass. Boring, but probably sells well.
Moonage Daydream
"One Muse is enough for me,
All feelings and words live in me,
Not for the benefit of other people's treasures,
Having met Stella, I comprehended Beauty, I copy, like a humble student,
What Nature created herself."
Dusty concrete, silky grass up to the waist, ears of corn and bindweed.
A modest glass with internal lighting. Pleasant, but quiet.
Into the Oud
"No, Stella's heart is a fortress of solid masonry,
There the mind has built moats and towers;
To break her there is neither means nor strength."
Strong, dashing and drunk Into the Oud only looks towards the oud from a whole barrel of Evernil. Rum, chocolate, raisins and creamy toffees, a garland of tropical flowers on the neck, the musty smoke of Iqos, flying away into the blackness of the southern night. It resembles many things, but I can't remember what exactly.
Madame M
"She heard my prayers more than once
And even sang them - so skillfully,
That she illuminated the darkness of sadness in the heart."
Madame M is an airy lemon cake with candied fruit, zest and vanilla. In other words, panettone. If you compare it with Panettone Milano Fragranze or Bake Akro, then Madame M has less lemon and spices, more vanilla, sweet airy dough with condensed milk, and something that turns the dessert into perfume.
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